The first post in our DIY Walnut Coffee Table Build Series focused on the aesthetic and functional design aspects of the coffee table. In part two, we took a deeper look at the woodworking aspects of the design, focusing on the joinery techniques, and furniture hardware decisions. In part three, we finally get to start working with wood. We start by picking out lumber from the lumber yard, milling the lumber to our desired dimensions, and gluing up the panels for the coffee table.
the perfect diy makeup bag (mini boxy shape)
If I can make this DIY makeup bag, you can too. This makeup bag is inspired by wanting to give a handmade, practical, and stylish gift to my loved ones during the holidays. I customized the colored zippers with the gift recipient’s favorite color. Thanks, Say Yes, for this beautiful tutorial.
Two coordinating fabric (one is preferably upholstery weight), Zipper, Coordinating thread, Pins, Sewing Machine, Scissors, Ruler
- STEP 1: Cut two pieces of each fabric choice. Each piece should be 5 1/2 x 9 1/2
- STEP 2: Lay one of the outer fabrics face up on your table, and set the zipper on top, face down so the top edge meets the top edge of the fabric. Then lay one of your lining pieces right side down to meet the top edge as well.
- STEP 3: Pin along that top edge so all three pieces are attached.
- STEP 4: Baste with needle and thread and then sew with your zipper foot along that top edge. Move your outer fabric so it’s on the outside, right side up.
- STEP 5: Now place the second lining fabric right side up on your table, then sandwich the pieces you just sewed in between, and finishing with the second outer piece right side down on top.
- STEP 6: Pin, baste and sew with the zipper foot on the top edge like you did for the other side.
- STEP 7: After sewing, iron the outer pieces flat, and then fold them together so the outer pieces are right side together and lining pieces sandwiching them.
- STEP 8: Pin at the opposite side of the zipper and sew along that bottom edge.
- STEP 9. Move the zipper to the middle, unzip it halfway and sew along those two sides, through the zipper (pinch the zipper together when you’re sewing through it).
- STEP 10: Pinch each edge in and measure with your ruler 2 1/2 inches across.
- STEP 11: Mark with a pen that line and then pin next to the it. Sew along the line you drew and then snip off the triangle end. Do the same for all four sides.
- STEP 12: Fold it inside out, so the outer pieces are on top and you’re done!
This DIY tutorial is from Say Yes, a crafty and stylish lifestyle blog. See her full instructional post here.
Ever since we moved in to our new condo three years ago, we’ve been using two small wooden shelves as a coffee table. Recently we decided it was time to get a real coffee table and our love of DIY lead to us designing and building our own walnut coffee table. Follow along as we detail the entire process, from initial design to purchasing lumber to building and finally to our finished coffee table.
It’s Jou Life | a DIY / lifestyle blog—musing about natural, healthy, artisanal living, and everything in between.
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Friends of Ours.
Hello, and welcome to It’s Jou Life! We’re Wayne and Jennifer, a (relatively) newly wed couple who found love in the most unexpecting place. This is our DIY / lifestyle blog—musing about natural, healthy, artisanal living, and everything in between.
We started this blog because our family and friends always ask us how we grow our own organic vegetables, what is Wayne woodworking on now, to send over our miso black cod recipe, what snacks stock our pantry, a tutorial on that cute zippered pouch, tips for marathon running, where do we worship, what to bring for a camping trip, what’s Jennifer’s skincare regimen… you get the idea. This is our way to share life’s loves.
What do you get when you mix an urban gardener with an DIY-enthusiast? DIY succulent terrarium centerpieces! We spent an hour of our Sunday to create a few of these lovely centerpieces for our upcoming wedding. We’re still having our florist make some floral centerpieces, but felt creating these additional DIY centerpieces is a beautiful way to add a personal touch and share our love for succulents with our guests. (It’s also friendly to our wedding budget!) I’ve learned floral centerpieces can cost from $75-$200. Materials to create these DIY succulent centerpieces cost about $15-$20 each.
A succulent terrarium isn’t only for weddings, it can also add the finishing touch to a coffee table, low-maintenance greenery to a desk or even a unique housewarming gift!
The Usual Suspects:
– Glass container with wide opening
– Succulents, assorted
– Cactus & Succulent soil mix
– Horticultural charcoal (optional)
– Decorative pebbles or river rocks
– A spoon, or little shovel
1. Place a 1-inch layer of pebbles/river rocks on the bottom of container; this provides drainage so the plants won’t rot in standing water. We used a mixture of large-size and small-size river rocks. We bought our glass containers from Michael’s craft store and succulents from our local garden nursery.
2. (Optional) Add a 1/2-inch of horticultural charcoal. The charcoal will help keep the terrarium smelling fresh. Smooth out this layer too. We read it helps to rinse the charcoal before to prevent a layer of black dust from collecting on the inside of the vase.
3. Place a layer of cactus mix soil, a fast-draining soil that retains little moisture. Use your little shovel or hand to level the cactus mix soil in your glass container.
4. Remove plants from pots. If you have multiple succulents in one pot, gently break them apart and use them separately. Scoop a little hole in the soil and place roots in soil. Gently add more soil around the edges of the container and around the base of the plants and pat around the roots. Sometimes the lanky, tall succulents have a difficult time standing up and tend to topple over. Pack more soil around them and strategically place some large-size river rocks around the base to create some stability. We used around 3-5 succulents per centerpiece.
5. Finish the look by adding more river rocks on the top layer. Done!
1. Give the terrarium direct sunlight every day for at least five or six hours.
2. Water the terrarium every two weeks. Water lightly–don’t over water.
3. The water should lightly drain to the bottom. After watering, there should not be more than an inch of water visible in the gravel at the bottom.
4. Use your finger to touch the soil and check if it’s dry before watering.
We still have to make more and look forward to shopping for more succulent varieties at our local nurseries!
We had a craft attack last week. In preparation for our e-shoot we prepared decorative craft letters as props. We bought the paper mache craft alphabet letters from Paper Source. They sell the whole alphabet in capital and lower case letters (also ampersand)! They are lightweight and the perfect paper material to be creative. You can decorate with paint, glitter, paper–possibilities are endless!
– Paper Mache Craft Alphabet Letters: We bought ours from Paper Source.
– Pattered Paper: We bought a beautiful patterned sheet of paper from Paper Source.
– Acrylic Paint: Colors that are similar to the paper you desire to wrap the letters in.
– Foam brushes
– Lead pencil & eraser
– Glue: We used a fabric glue that was strong and quick dry. All-purpose glue should be fine.
– Scissors & a Razor
Total time: If you’re a perfectionist, around 3-4 hours.
The craft letters we bought from Paper Source only come in a natural brown cardboard color. We decided to wrap decorative Paper Source paper around our letters for a unique look. A good tip we read online is to prep the letters with colored paint that is similar colors to the decorate paper. We bought these super cheap Craft Smart Acrylic Paint from Michael’s craft store, along with the foam brushes. Prepping it with paint is a good idea in the case there are “gaps” near the seams. The like-colored paint will be more seamless where the would-be brown gaps are. We painted several coats of yellow, since the color was so light and translucent. No need to soak the foam brush in water, just start painting in full-strength. (Don’t mind the brown empty spots above, my fingers were holding those spots and had to wait until everything dried before completely covering the missing spots)
This is the tricky part. We lightly traced a dotted line of the letter (with a lead pencil) onto the front decorative side of the paper. We also turned the letter to it’s side and traced the side with a solid line. Then cut at the solid line and folded at the dotted lines. This way, there are “flaps” and that are folded. The flaps should cover the sides of the letter to create a seamless look on the front side. We went back and lightly erased the dotted lines since it was slightly visible. Then glue the paper cut-out to the paper mache. Repeat on the flip side. The inside parts of the “W” had open spots, so strips that were measured to the width of the letter were cut and glued for a seamless effect. For paper that extends off the edges, use a razor to lightly slice it off.
So Wayne and I had our engagement shoot over the weekend and thought it’d be fun to add a pop of color to my nails. I went for a Zoya bright orangey-red color called Kate by The Small Things Blog. From the bottle to the nails, I love this vibrant color and jelly-licious finish.
1. Revlon Colorstay Base Coat: Apply one thin coat and let dry. This bad boy is a must before applying any type of nail color. It creates a smooth base before applying polish and acts like a protectant barrier between the nail bed and color. This helps most in more saturated colors like deep reds or dark colors from staining your nails. I like this Revlon brand because the dual brush covers more nail surface in one sweep. Easy and quick.
2. Color: Apply one thin coat and let dry. Repeat. Depending on the nail color, sometimes I repeat this step a third time with lighter, more translucent colors.
3. Sephora by OPI Top Coat: It’s important to make sure your color has thoroughly dried. Nothing is worse than applying top coat on semi-wet nails. Top coat is another must for me. It creates a seal for your color, shine, and protects it from chipping.
4. Sally Hansen Salong Manicure Quick & Dry Drops: This is a newly added product to my usual steps. I tried it for the first time over the weekend and really like it. This brilliant product dries polish in 60 seconds! These drying drops also help prevent smudges and dings. How it works: with just a couple drops, nails are dry to the touch in 60 seconds and completely dry in 5 minutes. Vitamin E and Jojoba formula helps hydrate and nourish dry cuticles.
We planted pole beans and cucumbers in the garden about 10 days ago and they recently sprouted!
The cucumber seeds were started under plastic bottles with the bottom removed to create a mini-greenhouse. After the seeds had sprouted, we removed the bottles and replaced them with plastic rings cut from water bottles to keep the seedlings separated from the mulch. This helps to keep the seedlings from staying too moist which can cause disease.
We have also been harvesting blueberries as they ripen. Blueberries don’t ripen all at the same time so you should check every couple days and harvest the ripe ones. It can be a little tricky to tell if blueberries are ripe, but look for berries that are completely blue/purple without any hint of green. Blueberries can also be sweeter if left on the bush an extra day or two after they turn colors. Just remember to pick them before the garden animals do.
We’ve been on the lookout for some medium-large planters to house the new blueberry bushes we got, but its been difficult finding good ones at a reasonable price. So we decided to build our own. Total cost ended up being around $25-$30 for a 18inch cube shaped planter. We could have used cheaper wood and reduced the price a bit, but we decided to use redwood for the weather and insect resistance.
Instead of using redwood planks, we used 5.5 inch redwood fence boards. Fence boards are cheaper than redwood planks and they also have a more rustic, unfinished look.
Cut from 5.5 inch wide redwood fence boards:
- 12×7.25 inches – for the planter sides (A)
- 3×18 inches – for the planter bottom (B)
Cut from 5.5 inch wide redwood fence boards, but split length-wise so one piece is 3 1/8 inches and the other is 2 3/8 inches.
- 4×17.75 inches – for the planter edges (D: 3 1/8, E: 2 3/8)
Cut from 1 3/8 square redwood lumber
- 4×17 inches – for the corner posts (F)
We also used 16 2 1/2 inches exterior wood screws and 12 1 1/4 inch exterior wood screws leftover from a previous project.
- Saw (we used a hand saw, but a power mitre saw would be much easier)
- Power drill
- Carpenters square
- Tape measure or ruler
- Clamps (we didn’t have any but it would have made the project a lot easier)
After cutting all of the required pieces, check the cut edges to make sure they are smooth and remove any sharp splinters.
Then start by constructing the first corner, take two sides (A) and line them up with corner post (F). All three pieces should sit on top of a base piece (B) and be flush with the edges.
Then take the two edging pieces (D and E) and arrange them as shown below (an extra pair of hands might come in handy here). You can also first screw in the sides to the corner posts, then attach the edging, but we were trying to save some screws. Be sure to drill pilot holes before driving the screws to make sure the wood doesn’t split. Pay close attention to how the seams overlap each other. The seam between the two sides (A) is covered by the edging piece (D). The side pieces (A) and corner post (F) should sit on top of a base piece (F). The edge pieces (D and F) should sit on the ground.
Next, either clamp the pieces of wood together or have a friend hold them while they are screwed together using 2 1/2 inch exterior wood screws. Make sure you attach the screws in to the center of the corner posts for a solid connection.
After the first corner is done, continue building the corners around the planter.
After all of the corners are completed, slide the remaining sides (A) down the grooves and screw in place.
The final step is to attach the bottom boards (B). Lay out the boards so there is around a 1/2 inch gap between the three boards for drainage. Then screw in to place using a combination of the 1 1/4 inch screws along the edge and the 2 1/2 inch screws in to the corner posts (F).
Now you are ready to plant! We planted blueberries so we could better control the soil since blueberries grow best in acid soil.